Somewhere between Ed Hardy and Yeezus, guys started getting into fashion. Once reserved strictly for women and weird gay guys in snakeskin pants, having an interest in one’s threads has somehow cemented itself on the modern man’s to-do list. From Calvin Klein commercials making headlines during the Super Bowl to raps about Versace linens and Margiela jackets–we’re in renaissance. Never before has menswear been as creative and saturated with ideas as it is today; and it’s only expected to continue. Real talk, boys and girls: the men’s fashion scene is what’s up.
This week, London Collections Men concluded its third season. With big names like Alexander McQueen, Burberry Prorsum and Rag & Bone signing on to join indie menswear designers for the event, L.C.M. is now permanently punctuated unto the fashion calendar. The shows were so bottom-line inspiring, I can’t even organize my thoughts. Sophisticated analyzation and logical ponder is asking too much. I’m just going to word vomit, sorry Tim Blanks. Get it all out there.
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#1) SHAUN SAMSON
My absolute #1 favorite men’s designer right now, this guy is a golden child. Samson’s last two collections have gone viral (you’ve definitely seen his work on tumblr), and one A$AP Rocky famously sported his Fall 2013 items head-to-toe, earmuffs and all. Continuing our current obsession with sportswear and the 90s (mesh tees and branded underwear!) Samson revives his tough, high-fashion Cali boy back with Vans slip-ons, 90s lanyards, and… wait for it… BEACH TOWEL SKIRTS. He’s taking his Pacific influence seriously here. Hip-hop artists will be a slobberin’
#2) RICHARD NICOLL
Another relative newbie in the game, Richard Nicoll presents his Spring 2014 men’s collection right on the train of his immaculate women’s resort designs. If it weren’t for my personal affection for fellow Cali boy Shaun Samson, Richard Nicoll’s flawless collection would be my first pick. Sharp, tailored sportswear after my own heart with leather snap-backs, and… what is this? Vintage gay porn + National Geographic print? Done. Seriosuly? Done.
Oh, KTZ. What is there to say about KT muthafuckin’ Z? I assumed that Spring 14 would continue the violent, RTF (high-five if you get it) journey of its past menswear collections; and I was so gladly correct in my thinking. KTZ’s design duo Koji Maruyama and Marjan Pejoski went all-out, creating a myriad of different prints (including one atlas print that I must get my hands on), utilizing metal to create the most insane accessories, and just reminding us that KTZ makes up its own rules. Play ball! And speaking of sportswear and gender bending, may I interest you in a pin-stripe baseball uniform DRESS?
Craig Green obviously puts on an incredible show, but break his show looks into separates and you’re left with truly phenomal pieces. Green’s knits are everything that’s missing in my high-fashion hobo look. On trend: baggy silhouettes.
Agi & Sam are the favorites of many for LCM SS14, and it’s easy to see why. Chic to the core, mastered use of incorporating innovative prints into formal wear. On trend: print-on-print, short-shorts, sportswear.
J.W. Anderson. If you follow menswear, or maybe just fashion in general, you were there when Anderson put his tall, lanky boys in lace dresses and sent them struttin’ down the runway. The king of breaking gender in fashion is showing no signs of watering down his point of view. Mind you, my picks are pretty biased (I like black), but even so–this isn’t menswear like you’ve ever seen before. On trend: gender bending.
Alexander McQueen lives on, in full British glory, under the beautiful eye of Sarah Burton. From donning her men in lace, and strapping them in Mary Janes, Burton toys with femininity and romanticism for Spring ’14. Exceptional construction, check. Menacing attitude, check. Savage beauty, check. Welcome home, McQueen. On trend: gender bending, print-on-print.
Bobby Abley has been on the SS Blog before; and for good reason. I love that he continues his sarcastic use on Disney birds, sweet pastels and teddy bear unto menswear with such a masculine attitude. I’ll expect to see his pieces rotating throughout the blogosphere. On trend: sportswear, gender bending.
And of course, Burberry made its triumphant return back to London with this Spring ’14 collection. The Burberry boy is still buttoned up, the smartest in class and oh so aspirational, but continuing to set himself apart with classic Burberry quirk: neon glasses, business sweatshirts (?), pops of color and a magificently weird double-collar shirt hat I must own. On trend: sportswear, neon
All in all, it was a phenomenal (albeit short) season.
Keep it sporty, keep it loose, keep it colorful, and for heaven’s sake, use neon + mesh sparingly. Oh, and go get a skirt.
I’ll say it one last time: VIVA MENSWEAR!
images via Style, Tumblr, Opening Ceremony, TFS, i-D